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ISBN10: 0071430105 | ISBN13: 9780071430104
ISBN10: 0071430105
ISBN13: 9780071430104
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Modern Mountaineering on Alpine Rock, Snow, and Ice
If your experience as a backpacker or rock climber is drawing you higher; if the cold, remote alpine environment calls you nearer, this book is for you. The Mountaineering Handbook will teach you the skills that will take you to the top. Even if you’re already an experienced mountaineer, you’ll find detailed descriptions of the newest and most effective techniques to refine and organize your methods and equipment. The Mountaineering Handbook isn't mired in outdated traditionalism; its new-school techniques are safer, more effective, and more fun for mountaineers at every level. With constant emphasis on light, fast, and efficient mountaineering, Craig Connally shows you how to:
- Move quickly up and down rock, snow, and ice with appropriate safety systems
- Manage mountain hazards, including rockfall, avalanche, lightning, and high-altitude illness
- Select the best equipment for your personal style and objectives
- Maintain sound nutrition and training according to the most up-to-date science
- Understand the human factors of mountaineering--the social and psychological forces that influence critical decisions
Connally’s passion for mountaineering is evident in his writing--The Mountaineering Handbook is clever, insightful, and entertaining. He intends to move mountaineering into the twenty-first century, but he’s also determined to turn the traditional how-to book on its ear by injecting personality, humor, and thoughtfulness into every page.
Part 1: Mountaineering
1. Introduction
Who's It For?
2. Let's Go Climbing Together
Get Your Head Ready
Get Your Skills Ready
Fast and Light
Get Your Body Ready
Get Your Gear Ready
Get Started
Base Camp
The Alpine Start
The Approach
The Climb
Onto the Rock
Retreat
Be Resourceful
Be Tough
Have Fun
Part 2: The Approach
3. Moving Fast on the Trail
On the Approach
On the Climb
4. Wilderness Navigation
Navigation with Maps
Handy Navigation Features
Resorting to Your Compass
Altimeters
New-School Mapping
GPS and UTM
Estimating Travel Time
Lost
Another Way of Navigating
5. Mountain Hazards
Rockfall and Icefall
Rain
River Crossings
Lightning
Avalanche
Altitude
Heat and Cold
Sun and UV
6. Mountain Weather
What You Already Know
Clouding the Picture
When Weather Gets a Lift
Climatology
Predicting Mountain Weather Using Local Observations
Lifting the Fog
7. The Alpine Start
Why Start Early
Morning Begins at Sundown
Turning Off the Lights
The Dread Bivouac
Part 3: Rock
8. Climb Rating Systems
Climb with Class
The YDS
Ice with That?
Making the Grade
What Does All This Mean to Mountaineers?
9. Your Climbing Rope
The Basics
Single, Half, Twin
What Specs Are Unimportant?
What Specs Matter?
Recommendations for Mountaineering Ropes
Handling and Caring for Your Rope
10. Equipment for Rock Climbing
Climbing Harness
Belay/Rappel Brakes
Helmet
Carabiners
Runners and Slings
Cordelette
Protection Hardware
Nut Tool
Rap Ring
Knife
11. Climbing Forces
Physics 001
Static Forces
Dynamic Forces and Leader Falls
Real-World Influences on Fall Forces
Strength of Safety-System Components
Force Multiplication
12. Anchors
Tying In
Simple Anchors
Complex Anchors
What's a Mountaineer to Do?
13. Rappelling
Get Connected
Rappel Anchors
Getting Started
Joining Two Ropes for Rappelling
Final Preparations
Self-Belay While Rappelling
Cast Off
As You Alight
Last Is Best
Freeing a Stuck Rope
14. Climbing on Rock
Preliminaries
Belaying the Leader
Leading
Climbing
Placing Pro
Belaying the Second
Seconding
Changeover
Moving Fast on Rock
Part 4: Snow and Ice
15. Equipment for Snow and Ice Climbing
Mountaineering Ax
Crampons
Snowshoes
Trekking Poles
Pulkke
Goggles
Shovel
Protection Hardware and Personal Gear
16. Climbing Snow and Ice
Ascending Snow
Crampon Techniques
Mountaineering Ax Techniques
Descending
Roped Travel on Snow
Climbing with Protection
Moving Fast on Snow
Climbing Ice
Part 5: Base Camp Basics
17. Lightweight Mountaineering
Step Lightly
18. Equipment for Base Camp
Boots and Shoes
Backpacks
Clothing Systems
Shelter Systems
Sleeping Systems
Fuel and Stoves
Ten Essentials Retho
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